Glacier National Park -- Road Trip Day 11

After visiting Flathead Lake we settled into to our cabin at the West Glacier KOA. The morning after we headed over into Glacier National Park! Thankfully, a few nights before coming, we realized we need a car reservation to get into the park! After an intense browser refresh session, we made it in and got our reservation! Once again, dogs are not allowed on trails in the park, but the views and pullouts are more than enough to take in the beauty of this park while on a road trip. Glacier was insane. I cannot wait to go back (without doggos) to fully appreciate this park!

Since we WERE with dogs, we couldn't do any of the trails of course. We did make the best of it however. It's a stunning area. We started on the west end in West Glacier and came into the park through Apgar. We started Going-To-The-Sun Road and drove it all the way to the east end of the park at St. Mary. The first few miles of Going-To-The-Sun Road along and near Lake Mcdonald was under construction. They are repaving a large section of the road, and while we were there a large portion was already torn up and it was just a dirt road, which was actually kind of cool, it makes it seem much more ...natural I guess?

The problem was, it was a fairly dry period so the thousands of cars driving on the road was constantly kicking up dust. Yeah your car is going to get dirty but who cares, the problem is...and you could see it quite well...all of the trees and vegetation near the road was coated in a thick coating of dust. There were water tankers that drove around during the busier times of day to wet the road in an effort to keep the dust to a minimum.

 

A storm started rolling in and started kicking up more dust on the road as we were leaving. We couldn't see ANYTHING!

I'm not a biologist but I imagine this is detrimental to plant health. This has to inhibit growth via blocking sunlight and thus photosynthesis right?? This study says I might be right. 

That water color though...

Glacier National Park in Montana is like the crown jewel of American wilderness, and it's not hard to see why. This place is massive, covering over a million acres right up against the Canadian border. Established way back in 1910, it's one of those spots that makes you realize just how epic nature can be.

You want lakes? Glacier National Park has got more than 130 of them, each with its own unique vibe. And it's not just about the water; this park is a botanical wonderland, home to over a thousand different kinds of plants. Oh, and let's not forget the wildlife—this place is crawling with everything from grizzly bears to mountain goats.

But what really sets Glacier apart is its role as part of the "Crown of the Continent Ecosystem." That's basically a fancy way of saying this area is one of the last truly wild places in North America. It's like stepping into a world that's been untouched by all the noise and clutter of modern life.

 

Mountains for Miles

 

We can't talk about Glacier National Park without mentioning its namesake glaciers, but here's the kicker: those glaciers are disappearing, and fast. Back in the day, around the mid-19th century, this area was home to about 150 glaciers. Fast forward to 2021, and that number had dwindled down to just 25 named glaciers. That's not just a bummer for the scenery; it's a big deal for the whole ecosystem.

See, glaciers aren't just pretty to look at; they're like the park's water towers. They store water and slowly release it, affecting everything from the rivers that flow through the park to the animals that call it home. As these glaciers melt away because of climate change, it messes with that whole system. River flows change, which can affect fish populations, and less reliable water sources can make life tougher for all the local wildlife.

So, while Glacier National Park is still an absolutely stunning place to visit, it's also a place that's facing some serious challenges. It's a real-life example of how climate change is affecting some of the most beautiful spots on our planet. If you do visit, it's a chance not just to see nature at its most majestic, but also to understand what's at stake if we don't take care of it.

 

A view from the Logan Pass Visitor Center, right after you reach the highest point on Going-To-The-Sun Road. I don't recommend trying to park there on busy days! We circled around for nearly half an hour burning precious gas. Definitely not the most environmentally friendly thing.

Driving through Glacier National Park, you'll find the Going-to-the-Sun Road, a notable 50-mile stretch that offers unparalleled views and an immersive experience of the park's natural beauty. This remarkable road, traversing the Continental Divide at Logan Pass, stands out for its stunning landscapes and the unique experience it offers to visitors. The band Fleet Foxes even did a song about it!

However, the road's existence and maintenance come with significant challenges. It's located in a highly sensitive ecosystem, where every effort must be made to minimize environmental impact. The process of maintaining the road, therefore, requires a delicate balance between accessibility and preservation. Furthermore, its popularity among tourists, beneficial in raising awareness and appreciation for natural spaces, also contributes to wear and environmental pressures.

 The higher elevations along the road receive TONS of snow per year, and they usually can't start clearing the snow off the road until well into spring. Clearing the snow takes a bit of time too! The road is typically only open for roughly 4 months out of the year. (Mid June to Mid October).

Look at the color on those stones!

 

If you're the kind of person who loves to be outdoors, Glacier National Park is basically your dream come true. Seriously, this place is like an all-you-can-do buffet of outdoor activities. Hiking? There are over 700 miles of trails here, so you can walk to your heart's content. If you're looking for recommendations, the Highline Trail and Grinnell Glacier Trail are must-dos. They'll take you up close and personal with some of the park's most iconic sights.

But maybe hiking isn't your thing. No worries, you can also go mountain biking, boating, or fishing. The park is like a giant playground for anyone who loves to be active in nature.

And let's talk about the wildlife for a second. This isn't a zoo; it's the real deal. You've got a good chance of spotting everything from grizzly bears to moose and mountain goats. And for the birdwatchers out there, keep your eyes peeled for eagles and ospreys.

 

This view was intense. Such vibrant colors looking over Saint Mary Lake at Glacier NP

Glacier National Park isn't just a big deal in the U.S.; it's got global cred too. This place was named a Biosphere Reserve back in '76 and became a World Heritage Site in '95. That's like the nature equivalent of winning an Oscar and a Grammy.

But wait, there's more. Right next door is Canada's Waterton Lakes National Park. Put them together, and you've got the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. It's not just a mouthful to say; it's also a symbol of how the U.S. and Canada can come together to protect something truly special. It's like the ultimate friendship bracelet but made out of two epic national parks.

 

 Glacier National Park isn't just a natural wonder; it's a place steeped in deep cultural and historical roots. Long before it became a national park, this land was home to Native American tribes like the Blackfeet, Salish, and Kootenai. We're talking about communities that have been connected to this landscape for thousands of years.

The park doesn't just acknowledge this history; it aims to honor it. So, when you're exploring Glacier, you're also getting a chance to learn about the Native American cultures that have shaped this land. The park incorporates this rich history into its educational programs, making it more than just a pretty place to take photos.

Lake McDonald right before a small storm rolled through.

 

Glacier National Park is a stunner, no doubt, but it's also got its share of challenges. Managing the impact of all those visitors each year is a big one. Then there's the elephant in the room: climate change, which is already affecting those iconic glaciers and the ecosystems they support. It's a delicate balancing act to keep this place as pristine as it deserves to be.

But even with those challenges, Glacier National Park is still a knockout when it comes to natural beauty and ecological importance. It's not just a place to snap some great pics; it's also a living lab for scientists studying everything from climate change to wildlife behavior. Plus, the park is a cornerstone for conservation efforts aimed at preserving this unique environment for future generations.

When you visit, you're not just a tourist; you're part of a bigger story. It's a chance to experience one of America's most incredible natural areas and to think about how we can all play a part in preserving places like this for the future. Whether you're there for the adventure, the wildlife, or the sheer awe of it all, Glacier National Park offers a deeper experience that sticks with you long after you've left.

 

The pups enjoying the view, too. They can't go on the trails, but still admire from afar.

 

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Flathead Lake -- Road Trip Day 10

After visiting Pompey's Pillar and settling into Bozeman, MT for the night, we moved onward. We wanted to check out Flathead Lake on our way to Glacier NP...so we did! It was a perfect idea because we had a long drive from Bozeman, so by the time we even got near the Glacier NP area it would be fairly late to do anything there. Stopping for a quick hike around and near Flathead Lake was a great mediary. 

An unfortunate wildfire on a mountain we saw on our way through Montana. This was right outside of Arlee, MT and was actually on the Flathead Indian Reservation, I believe right off of US highway 93. Not the first wildfire we'd see on our trip :(

 I got thinking while we were here...Man, we had some insane luck on our trip, every day we perfect blue skies, few clouds, rain, fog, smoke, etc. Sure some were excruciatingly hot, but every single day, just banger after banger. Day 10 of our road trip out west was no different! A beautiful day that only highlighted the landscapes.

 

Pristine and stunning Flathead Lake!

 

About Flathead Lake

Located in northwest Montana, Flathead Lake stands out as more than just an ordinary body of water. It proudly holds the title of being the largest natural freshwater lake in the western United States in terms of surface area. Its sheer size is truly remarkable, spanning an impressive 28 miles in length and 15 miles in width, covering an expansive 191 square miles. If you drive from Polson, at the bottom of the lake to Somers at the top of the lake it takes roughly 45 minutes to get there.

This lake is no shallow pool either, as it reaches a depth of approximately 370 feet at its lowest point. It can be likened to the majestic Grand Canyon, drawing its waters from various sources, including the renowned Flathead River. However, Flathead Lake is not solely defined by its immense proportions or breathtaking beauty. It possesses a profound essence that resonates with its rich history and cultural significance. 

It was actually named after the Flathead Native American Tribe, who have called this region home for countless generations, the lake holds a deep connection to its original inhabitants. Treat it with respect! Situated partially on the Flathead Indian Reservation, it serves as a place steeped in cultural heritage and historical importance. Today, Flathead Lake transcends being a mere picturesque postcard image. It thrives as a vibrant and thriving ecosystem, providing a habitat for a diverse array of wildlife.

 It serves as a harmonious meeting point between the past and the present, where visitors can revel in the natural splendor while also appreciating the profound cultural roots that make this place truly extraordinary.

 

Such a serene place!

 

Flathead Lake's history and natural beauty are remarkable. This lake is a vestige of an ancient, much larger lake, shaped by the same glacial activities that formed Glacial Lake Missoula. Its impressive depth and distinctive shape are legacies of these geological processes.

The lake is nestled within a landscape that boasts a variety of stunning vistas, encompassing dense forests, rugged shorelines, and towering mountain ranges like the Mission and Swan Mountains. This diverse environment makes Flathead Lake a haven for outdoor enthusiasts, offering a plethora of activities such as boating, fishing, swimming, and kayaking.

The lake is also a vibrant ecosystem, home to a rich variety of fish species. This bustling aquatic life, combined with the chance to spot eagles in the sky, adds an extra layer of wonder to the already magnificent surroundings.

 

Flathead Lake is both a breathtaking natural destination and a vital element of the local ecosystem. It functions as an organic water purification system and provides essential habitat for diverse species. Yet, this lake is not immune to environmental threats like pollution, invasive species, and climate change effects. Organizations and agencies are committed to preserving its ecological integrity.

Beyond its ecological role, Flathead Lake is steeped in cultural importance. It's a treasure trove of local legends, stories, and traditions, enriching it as more than a mere physical feature. The lake is a focal point for community gatherings, events, and attracts tourists to Montana for unique outdoor experiences.

Additionally, Flathead Lake is a hub for scientific research and education. The Flathead Lake Biological Station, for instance, is a center of excellence for studying freshwater ecology. The insights gathered here significantly enhance global understanding of freshwater environments, underlining the lake's importance in scientific and educational fields.

 

There he is! Schatzi is king of his rock

 

Flathead Cherries

The fertile land surrounding Flathead Lake is ideal for farming, and the area is known for its high-quality cherry orchards. The microclimate created by the lake provides favorable conditions for these and other crops, making agriculture an important part of the local economy. Seriously though, there are cherry stands everywhere. Flathead cherries here, Flathead cherries there. I'm disgusted with myself for not getting any on my way through. Perhaps next time I get out to Glacier NP I'll stop by at Flathead Lake again for some cherries!

Lodging 

Lodging? We stayed at the West Glacier KOA of course. The cabins were NOT!!! Air conditioned. But thankfully the weather got cooler, and was cooler in general in this area. We managed. The West Glacier KOA is actually one of the highest rated KOA sites in the country. It was actually pretty cool, and I see why. There was a ton of stuff there, including an onsite restaurant that served breakfast and dinner, as well as a converted AirStream that a bartender was slinging beers and spirits out of, aptly titled the Bear-Stream. Or maybe it should be the beer-stream??

We stayed here for two nights. Tonight, and the night we actually went to Glacier National Park.

West Glacier KOA Propane Stove Cooking. You can see the standalone restaurant in the background. We decided to cook tonight instead. I think we were making people jealous over there. I made some delicious burrito bowls. It's totally possible! You can spy my GF's cocktail she got from the Bear-Stream as well. I got an old fashioned because... well why not. 

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Pompey's Pillar and Bozeman, MT -- Road Trip Day 9

From Theodore Roosevelt NP we were then headed towards Bozeman, MT on our roadtrip from PA to WA. We didn't have anything planned in Bozeman, just to relax in civilization for a night. We decided to do a quick detour right off of I-94 to Pompey's Pillar on the way there. I never heard of it prior to our trip. I literally only found out about it using the Roadtrippers app. I was looking for any sites managed by the National Park Service. This was close enough. It's a National Monument, managed by the Bureau of Land Management. I figured it was something to do, and a good way to stretch our legs on a long drive and maybe see some cool sights. And...since it's managed by BLM, our America The Beautiful Pass covered our entry! Win!

I have to say...Montana has some of the nicest Rest Stops I've been to. Scenic, even. I have the bladder the size of a pea so we're always stopping to pee. Look at these views from just a random rest stop. Amazing! This was on the way to Bozeman before Pompey's Pillar.

During our quick trip to the site we enjoyed the views from the ground. You can climb up a million steps to the top, but not with dogs you can't! The mosquitos and other bugs here were absolutely insane too. There were literally signs at the entrance telling you to bring bug spray. I believe the ranger at the entrance gate told us too. Well. We put spray on, but it was NOT effective. I think it was some crappy "natural" spray with oregano oil or whatever. Nahhh dude, you need the industrial stuff for rural Montana.

Not the greatest way of figuring that out. By the time we got back to the car I needed twelve arms to properly scratch the itch all over my body. Lesson learned I guess!

What is Pompeys Pillar?

Pompey's Pillar is a 120 foot tall sandstone rock, almost pillar like, situated near the Yellowstone River, and an important part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. It's proximity to the Yellowstone River, is what caught my eye the most. There's a few small trails at the site, one of which loops you around to see the views of the river, which we of course did. 

The site is important because of its history. It is one of the last remaining, or only remaining pieces of physical evidence of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Clark literally carved up the rock and wrote this name and date in the rock. It's still there, and National Monument site encased it to preserve it.

There's a trail that takes you out to the Yellowstone River!

 

As far as the name Pompey goes, you have to trust that the people back in the 1800's had their best interest at heart. It is actually named for Sacagawea's son, Jean Baptiste Charbonneau, both of whom were on the expedition. Clark, appreciating the guiding efforts of Sacagawea on the expedition, named the rock after her son, who Clark nicknamed "Pomp". Little Pompey. Thus Pompey's Pillar. Cool right? Sure.

 

More river views!

Is Pompey's Pillar worth going out of your way for? No, not entirely. It depends on your reasons and wants for visiting. The sights are cool, if not limited. The history is definitely there. There IS apparently a cancellation stamp in the area, which me missed. It is isn't specifically for Pompey's Pillar National Monument but there evidently is...somewhere...which we missed...a Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Pompey's Pillar location cancellation stamp. 

Is Pompey's Pillar worth stopping off of I-94 in the middle of nowhere to stretch your legs and get a little walking in with some cool sights and history? Yeah definitely. Just please for the love of God bring DEET. And lots of it.

There's Pompey's Pillar! It was a beautiful day out.

 

Bozeman, Montana

It's not a big area...but it certainly was cool to see! We headed to Bozeman where we were finally able to load up on more human AND dog food, drinks., etc. We really wanted to visit the brewery Mountains Walking. I've had beers from them before in Pennsylvania using a beer delivery service called Tavour, so I wanted to try them from the source. 

Unfortunately, they didn't allow dogs on the premises, which is wild to me. Mind blowing. Someone brought their dog and just tied it up outside of the brewery... I certainly would not have done that. We simply got some beer and food to go from there and headed to our hotel for the night. 

Me and my double Grazing Clouds DIPA from Mountains Walking in the hotel and not at the brewery :(

Interestingly, Bozeman was the first area we noticed the visual presence of un-housed individuals. This is because Montana is the first state that we drove into that belongs to the Ninth Circuit of Court of Appeals. The Ninth circuit ruled that if someone does not have a place to stay, it is unconstitutional to make laws making public sleeping illegal. 

This can be seen throughout the Ninth Circuit's coverage, including Montana itself, Idaho, Washington, Oregon, California, Nevada, and Arizona (as far as contiguous US goes).   Personally, I consider this ruling a win. If someone is homeless and has nowhere to stay, how is it helpful to make it illegal for them to...have nowhere to stay? But that's enough from me, this isn't a politics blog.

Be sure to check out Road Trip Day 10 where we head towards Glacier National Park in Montana, but on our way we stop at Flathead Lake for the evening!

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